Returning from a family holiday in Brittany last year,
Southampton Rambler, Jackie B recommended the French coast as
an ideal destination for a group holiday. Under the direction
of John F, following a recce in
October 2006, plans were laid that had an uncanny parallel to
the planning of the D Day Landings. Timetables and itineraries
were drawn up, briefings held and watches synchronised.
Laminated maps were issued although these were less comfortable
when sewn into your underwear than the silk maps issued to the
Air Borne Divisions in 1944.
Strategy!
Our 'invasion' of France was a two pronged attack to keep the French on their toes. Team 1 in the camper van landed at St Malo, while Teams 2-4 came ashore at Le Havre. Reinforcements in the guise of Team 5, were expected two days later. The rendezvous was Friday 25th May 2007 at St Malo Youth Hostel, in time for dinner. While on the way down to St Malo, Teams 2 & 3 paid a visit to Pegasus Bridge and the remains of the Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches.
The Start.
The next morning we were stationed
outside the local supermarket for the 8.30am opening, to
re-victual before catching a bus to Pointe du Grouin, East of
St Malo. Here we were introduced to the GR34, our partner for
the holiday, one of France's longest 'Sentiers de grande
randonnee' which runs for 2,000 Km along the coast from Mont
St. Michel to Port Navalo on the Golfe du Morbihan. The route
was signed by red and white striped GR trail markers which had
a succinct Boy Scout type coding for indicating directions.
Sunday 27th we set out on a walk along the Rance Estuary. With the aid of a wireless telegraph we liaised with Team 5 who joined us for lunch, hot foot from Le Havre, bringing our full complement up to 16.
Monday 28th we checked out of St Malo and headed for an exhilarating cliff walk around the Cap Frehel Peninsular. We joined the GR34 on the sheltered wooded side of Fresnaye Bay. Climbing from sea level to emerge
from a temperate jungle on to a bare rocky promontory where the dramatic Forte de la Latte was perched above the sea. We continued around the cliff tops to the lighthouses standing on the 70m high cliffs at Cap Frehel. Phare Vauban being one of the oldest light houses in France dating from 1685 but now over shadowed by a more modern tower. It was an extremely windy day and lighter members of our party had to be weighted down to prevent vertical take off. That evening we headed to our next destination, St Brieuc Youth Hostel
Tuesday 29th was a perfect day, the wind had died and there were clear blue skies and sunshine from dawn to dusk. We joined the GR34 for a section along the Cote du Granit Rose. The tide was out, the sea a vestige blue line on the horizon. The coast was littered with small granite islands and numerous creeks. Solitary houses occupied some of the islands, boasting their own moat at high tide. The Big Chief I Spy prize of the day went to a cottage squeezed in between two huge granite boulders that towered above the building on both sides.
Wednesday 30th the camper van departed - back to
work for some on the Thursday. Returning to the GR 34, this
time on the East of the Abbaye de Beauport, there was a hive of
activity in the expanse of bay below us as the huge mussel beds
were tended. Due to the late start of the walk (logistics in
leaving cars at the finish) we ran out of time to complete the
walk. Our C in C decided the four drivers would leg it to
the finish, enabling the rest of us to have a leisurely walk to Lanloup where we were picked up.
Mont St. Michel
Friday 1st June we were booked on a
Traversee la Baie, a guided walk across the bay from Bec d' Andaine to Mont St. Michel. Bare feet, shorts and a warm top
were the order of the day. The crossing was about 7 km each
way, covering a variety of terrain from firm flat sand to mud,
patches of quick sand and immense tracts of hard ridged sand
which was very uncomfortable on delicate bare
feet! The crossing included wading a swift flowing river that
came above the knees, which for shorter members of our party
was tantamount to a bath.
We had an hour sight seeing on the Mount amidst
a heaving throng of multinational tourists before the return
crossing. Friday night was spent in Bayeaux with a browse
around the city the following morning before heading back to Le
Havre for the afternoon ferry home.
It was a fantastic holiday , everyone in the teams played their part, in walk leading, map reading, driving, navigating, sorting out meals, translating, shopping, first aid, ferry bookings and general planning.
